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How Unilever’s pioneering skin microbiome research is shaping product innovation

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Unilever is one of the world’s leading authorities in skin microbiome research. Here Cheri Chu, Associate Director for Unilever Research & Development, delves into some of our most exciting discoveries and how they’re shaping products of the future.

A scientist at work in a Unilever R&D lab. Their face is not visible. They are wearing a white lab coat and green gloves, holding a device.
A photo of Unilever microbiome scientist Cheri Chu. Cheri has dark shoulder-length hair and is smiling into the camera.
Cheri Chu, Associate Director for Unilever Research & Development
Cheri, how has Unilever built its microbiome research capabilities, and what sets our scientific approach apart?

For the past 20 years, we’ve been conducting research to advance our understanding of the skin, scalp and oral microbiome – and using the latest AI and technology now enables our scientists to analyse findings faster than we could ever have imagined.

Since publishing our first microbiome study in 2003, we’ve obtained more than 100 patents in this area and Unilever maintains the world’s largest human skin microbiome data collection.

What makes our approach distinctive is that we’ve adopted a holistic host–microbe ecosystem perspective. That means we look at the whole picture to understand complex interactions between microbes and the host (in this case human skin) – and translate scientific findings into innovative products that align with real consumer needs.

This isn’t just about better products. It’s about smarter claims, personalisation and creating entirely new categories of beauty, personal care and wellness solutions.

Cheri Chu, Associate Director for Unilever Research & Development
How does our expertise in skin microbiome science give Unilever a competitive advantage?

First, our vast, well-annotated dataset allows us to spot actionable microbial signatures – insights we can translate into meaningful consumer benefits.

Second, publishing our discoveries in titles such as the British Journal of Dermatology (BJD) positions Unilever as a scientific reference point, strengthening trust in our brand claims.

And third, we’ve laid the groundwork for personalised solutions. Launches like the Pond’s Microbiome Analyzer demonstrate how our science enables in-store diagnostics and tailored skincare routines.

Can you share some specific examples of how your microbiome research has led to new product development?

Absolutely. Our research addresses a range of conditions from premature ageing, acne and dandruff to psychological wellbeing.

This has contributed to the development of specific anti-dandruff products for men, advanced retinol technologies, prebiotic moisturisers, superior acne care, unique cleanser formula – to name just a few – and these innovations are featured across our brands, including Dove, Vaseline, Clear, Pond’s and Dermalogica.

How is Unilever’s microbiome research verified and accredited?

Unilever has an established track record of publishing scientific discoveries in peer-reviewed journals. This year, we’re particularly pleased to have had six manuscripts featured as a special supplement in the BJD, a leading journal in the field. This marks a first for consumer goods companies.

We also collaborate with globally leading academic institutions and clinical partners, ensuring the highest standards of scientific rigour.

Unilever recently published research that proves a link between skin microbiome and overall wellbeing. Can you explain more about that?

This research explores what we call the skin–brain axis – the communication between the skin and the brain – and the connection between how our skin feels and how we feel overall.

By examining the microbiome traits of various body areas and the wellbeing factors that are relevant to people’s day-to-day life, we discovered that higher levels of a common skin bacterium called Cutibacterium are linked to better psychological wellbeing. Specifically, more Cutibacterium on the face and underarm is associated with lower stress and improved mood.

The skin–brain axis remains an under-researched yet highly relevant area, especially as consumers increasingly view beauty and wellbeing as interconnected. They’re looking for solutions that support both physical appearance and overall wellness. Our insights open up new possibilities for the role of the skin microbiome, beyond the skin itself.

What has your research revealed about the skin microbiome’s role in ageing?

While everyone gets older, we don’t all age at the same rate. We found that the appearance of ageing isn’t just about the biology of human skin, it’s also linked to changes in the microbiome. We showed that the use of effective skincare ingredients helps restore a younger microbiome profile as well as giving a younger skin appearance.

We’re excited to discover how the skin microbiome relates to the onset of visible signs of ageing, regardless of chronological age.

Acne is another skincare concern for millions of people. How could products that help rebalance the skin microbiome help to treat acne?

There’s a significant gap in the market for skincare products that address both visible acne symptoms and rebalance the skin microbiome. Existing treatments typically target inflammation reduction, cellular turnover promotion or broad-spectrum bacterial inhibition, which may disrupt the microbiome’s delicate equilibrium.

We are currently exploring new formulas that work with the skin’s natural defence systems, supporting people with acne to have a healthy skin microbiome.

Unilever has a vast portfolio of hair care products. What have you learned about the relationship between healthy scalp microbiome and dandruff?

Dandruff is closely linked to the scalp microbiome, and we have substantial expertise in this area. We identified that male scalps with severe dandruff exhibit more pronounced microbiome changes than female scalps, even when flake levels are similar.

These findings underscore the biological variances in dandruff progression between sexes, highlighting the importance of developing customised solutions for effective dandruff management – an area where we know consumer demand is growing.

How will microbiome discoveries shape innovation across Unilever’s brands in the future?

The microbiome is an integral part of the skin, and our growing understanding of the microbiome and its interaction with the host will unlock new opportunities for innovating superior product technologies.

Our dataset and analytics will keep powering precision benefits – hydration, sensitivity, ageing and overall wellbeing – tailored by geography, life stage and routine. We’re also moving into what we call diagnostic beauty, creating new segments with digital guidance tailored to the unique biological traits behind visible concerns.

This isn’t just about better products. It’s about smarter claims, personalisation and creating entirely new categories of beauty and wellness solutions.

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